A stones throw away from the popular tourist hotspot Wanaka, lies Lake Hāwea. This small village is situated at the edge of the lake and often a spot overlooked by tourists. At most, the majority of the traffic will stop only for a photo opportunity before quickly speeding across Haas pass, towards the wild and tropical West Coast of New Zealand.
Wanaka itself is a trendy town, sitting right at the waters edge. There is an abundance of activities for all, including mountain biking, hiking, climbing and more. At the top of most New Zealand bucket list hikes, will be Roys Peak, which lies around 10km from the centre of Wanaka. Trails in this area are pretty busy, mostly because they are accessible from the town centre and the views are arguably some of the most iconic in the country.
After starting my running journey in New Zealand at Lake Tekapo, I was keen to find another serene lake location, for my next trail run of the tour. I'd briefly visited Lake Hāwea the previous year in New Zealand and was impressed by the rugged peaks, crystal clear waters and relaxed vibe. This seemed the perfect location to lace up my running shoes once more.
Lake Hāwea is the hidden gem in the area, with fewer tourists and many Kiwi's enjoying a holiday in this region themselves. For my first trail run here, I chose an undulating section of trail around the lake, which was both a hiking and biking trail. As this was my first longer run of the trip and longer run for many months, I wanted less challenging terrain and the opportunity to take in the incredibly views along the way. The Gladstone Track seemed the perfect choice.
Gladstone Track
After a morning coffee, I set foot on the trail and got into a steady rhythm. Aiming for 15km, I knew this was my longest run for over 3 months and would require good pacing. Straight away, I was blown away with the beauty of the lake, glistening in the morning sun with high peaks towering above and reflecting in the still waters. The trail was unchallenging in terms of technicality and wide enough to enjoy the wide sweeping views along the passage, yet still fun.
Within a few kilometers, the trail left the small hamlet of Lake Hāwea and all that was in sight was rugged peaks, the crystal clear lake and trail which weaved alongside the waters edge. By late morning, the temperature was already high and I could feel the strength of the sun beating down. This trail was very exposed to the elements, with only very short sections through isolated pine trees which, nonetheless, provided some very much needed relief from the heat.
This section of trail is part of the iconic Te Araroa, which stretches the length of the country across both islands. Hikers spend days in the wilderness, only arriving back to civilisation periodically to stock up on food and for a welcomed rest. Many TA walkers I encountered on this section of trail looked a little dishevelled after trekking through the back country for multiple days, but all still had a smile on their faces. Their commitment and determination helped me push through the dull ache which was emerging in my legs, even just a few kilometers into my run that day.
Around 5km into my run, the trail descended gradually and merged along a section of beach; a perfect spot for a mid-run swim or just a quick pit stop to refresh and refuel. The colour of the water and reflection of the mountains is truly astonishing, particularly on a clear or partly cloudy day. The rustic colours of the mountains reminded me of some of the peaks in Scotland, not that you'd ever be so lucky to have the same weather to match.
From there, the track widens into a gravel road, which takes you North along the lake. Few cars pass along this stretch, other than to reach a handful of isolated hiking trails, taking you deep into the back country. As my watch hit the 7.5km mark, I started retracing my steps, not wanting to bite off more than I could chew. If you wanted to extend the distance, however, this is entirely possible on this section of trail - with similar terrain and elevation, extending much further around the circumference of the lake.
As I followed the trail back, it felt harder to get back into the groove. This time, I was happily stopping to speak to bikers and hikers for any excuse of a rest, but of course, this made starting to run again even harder. In honesty, I'd started the run too late in the day to beat the heat and I was running out of water, so the rationing had already begun. These things were a little amateurish, but nonetheless, happen from time to time.
Slowly but surely, I kept putting one foot in front of the other. The insanely beautiful views were enough to keep me motivated to keep the pace up and get me back to camp. Hitting the 15km point, I was very pleased with the achievement in itself, but the whole experience that day was one to remember for a long time. The glistening lake, untamed mountains, friendly outdoor enthusiasts, all making the experience even more special for me. I couldn't wait for more of what I'd just experienced.
Grandview Mountain Track
Although I hate to admit it, I could feel my legs more than I would have liked to the day after my 15km trail run along the Gladstone Track. That meant that as much as I would have loved to have run my next trail, hiking was a much more sensible and good recovery option. Keen to get off the beaten track and explore some hidden gems, I stumbled on the 'Grandview Mountain Track' - a 17km out-and-back route which was sure to provide breathtaking views across the lake, whist giving a wilderness feel.
This route started through a valley, with a few small river crossings which weren't too difficult to navigate, if you don't mind getting your feet wet. Soon I came across the next set of obstacles, herds of cows who clearly weren't familiar with hikers or 'trampers' (New Zealand's name for hiking). Carefully avoiding any cattle disasters, I was on my merry way into the wilderness. The peaks in this area were rugged, wild and untouched, with only a few trails across this mountain range. To start, the climb was hard mainly because it was difficult to see where the top of the climb would end, but as soon as the views started to emerge, motivation to push on to the top wasn't in short supply.
As soon as views of Lake Hāwea emerged, the climb seemed worth it and my legs begun to power with ease, knowing the views would only be getting better and better. The trail for most part of the climb was rough, but a reasonable width at all times, making it a very safe option to push the pace and relax into a good rhythm. A handful of bikers (mainly with e-bikes) passed me that day, with the trail safe enough to ride on two wheels.
Towards the summit, the higher peaks around began to make themselves known, namely Mount Aspiring standing tall and proud in the distance. From this angle, the peak looked a lot like the Matterhorn, distinctive in shape and size, with a snow capped peak to add to the impressive appearance.
Reaching the summit of any hike has to be the highlight of any route, and in this case, there was no exception. Turning off the wide bike track, I started to weave through tussock, quickly revealing an idyllic pathway towards the summit, with a real stairway to heaven vibe. I eagerly marched on, excited to reach the highest part of the track which was sure to reveal the most spectacular views so far.
The summit is by no means the tallest in the area, sitting at 1,398 metres, but you are rewarded with impressive 360 degree views. Most likely, because this trail is off the beaten track, you'll also have this peak to yourself. I was organised enough to pack a delicious lunch for the hike, so I enjoyed my cuisine with incredible views all around me. Knowing that there were so many trails nearby, which are overcrowded put into perspective the serenity of the moment. All I could hear was the wind sweeping across the mountain and the call of birds echoing between the peaks.
As I started the decent, the temperature dropped and weather started to change. The trail was easy to navigate back down; if running, this would be where the real fun would begin. Although I did just hike this route, I would love to return to lace up my running shoes for another adventure
In total, this out and back route was around 17km, with just shy of 1,000metres of climbing. A great option if you're looking for safe, fun and quiet trails with impressive views of the Southern Alps.
